1《西区故事》(1961 年)

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　　Natalie Wood plays an impoverished Puerto Rican on the wrong side of town, but still gets to wear ravishing New Look silhouettes with beautifully matching shoes. This disregard for the tenets of gritty kitchensink drama bothered us for years, but then we remembered that her character Maria worked in a bridal shop – was she helping herself to fabric and dye when the boss wasn’t looking? And is that why she felt so pretty?

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　　娜塔利�伍德饰演的是一名穷困的波多黎各人，住在镇上的贫民区，但她依然穿着迷人的“新风貌”服装，以及与之相配的漂亮鞋子。这种无视写实激进现实主义戏剧的宗旨的服饰让我们困惑了很多年，不过，我们记得她饰演的人物玛利亚在一家婚纱店工作——难道她趁老板不注意的时候私用布料和颜料了吗?那就是她看起来那么漂亮的原因吗?

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　　2《白日美人》(1967 年)

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　　The director Luis Bu?uel steadfastly maintained that this was a serious psycho-sexual study of bourgeois neurosis. Nice try, Bu?uel. Obviously what’s really on show here is Catherine Denueve’s stupyingly chic wardrobe – designed for her by YSL himself. Seriously – the clothes helped to nail the Deneuve character’s pampered, demure confusion.

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　　导演路易斯�布努埃尔一直坚称这部电影是一个严肃的对资产阶级神经症的心性研究。得了吧，布努埃尔。显然这部影片真正讲的是凯瑟琳�德纳芙令人惊叹的时髦服装——由伊夫�圣罗兰亲自为她设计。说真的，这些衣服有助于揭示出德纳芙所饰演的人物放纵和假正经并存的双重性格。

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　　3《夜长梦多》(1946 年)

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　　Notwithstanding that she is one of the most beautiful females ever to grace the planet, Lauren Bacall’s Big Sleep looks – the pinned-back hair, the chicly tilted hats, the power-shouldered jackets – were arguably the finest she wore on screen. And observe again at the dress in which she serenades the punters in Eddie Mars’s gambling den: incomparable.

�

　　尽管劳伦�白考尔是这个星球上最美的女性之一，但她在《夜长梦多》中的装扮——头发别在后面、帅气地斜戴着帽子、肩部翘起的夹克——可能是她在屏幕上最靓丽的形象。再细看一下她在埃迪�马尔斯的赌场为赌客唱小夜曲时穿的裙子：无与伦比。

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　　4《赎罪》(2007 年)

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　　How come films set inthe 1930s almost always look better than films made in the 1930s? Moving as Christopher Hampton’s adaptation of Ian McEwan’s novel is, Keira Knightley’s clothes steal the show. The costume designer Jacqueline Durran grasped the period and ran with it – languid, elegant, understated yet drop-dead gorgeous.

�

　　为什么以20 世纪30 年代为背景的电影几乎总是比20 世纪30 年代拍摄的电影要好看?影片《赎罪》由克里斯托弗�汉普顿改编自伊恩�麦克尤恩的小说，随着故事跃然于银幕，凯拉�奈特利的衣服便大出风头。这件服装的设计者杰奎琳�杜兰抓住了那个时代的特征，并追随潮流——慵懒、优美、简洁，但美艳夺目。

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副标题#e#

　　5《雌雄大盗》(1967 年)

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　　Bonnie Parker’s main accessory, aside from her gun and Clyde Barrow, was a series of killer hats. Her beret and silk scarf combination is as legendary as it is simple, and the beribboned fedoras she wore on several heists gave her a sense of propriety in improper circumstances.

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　　除了枪和克莱德�巴罗外，邦妮�帕克的主要配饰是一系列杀手帽。她的贝雷帽和丝巾搭配既简洁又具有传奇色彩。她在多次抢劫中所戴的饰有缎带的浅顶软呢帽在不适宜的场合中散发出一种适宜感。

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　　6《安妮�霍尔》(1977 年)

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　　Admittedly, that androgynous waistcoat and tie shtick, based on Diane Keaton’s own wardrobe of vintage menswear, looks a little clunky now. But no Annie Hall, no Ralph Lauren. Annie’s impact reverberates even today – see Chloe, Celine.

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　　不可否认，基于女主角黛安�基顿个人衣橱中的古董男装而为影片设计的男女通用的马甲和领带的特色搭配，现在看起来有点笨拙。不过没有《安妮�霍尔》，就没有拉夫�劳伦的今天。安妮的影响力持续至今—— 看看蔻依和赛琳的设计吧。

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　　7《工厂女孩》(2006 年)

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　　To play the part of Edie Sedgwick with any conviction Sienna Miller had to employ the skills of her enormous eyes and long, nubile legs. The clothes in between were a revolving mixture of black leotards, striped dresses and enormous animal skins. Although she spent a good part of the film in nothing more than a pair of tights, wherever she went piles of necklaces and several knuckleduster rings followed.

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　　为了更好地诠释伊迪�塞奇威克这个角色，西耶娜�米勒必须发挥她的大眼睛和性感长腿的魅力。影片中的服装是黑色紧身连衣裤、条纹连衣裙和大皮草的循环混搭。尽管她在影片中大部分时间都只是穿着一双紧身裤袜，但她总是会搭配很多项链和指节套似的戒指。

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　　8《乱世佳人》(1939 年)

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　　Vivien Leigh’s Southern-belle accent was slightly wonky, but the gracul way she wore her antebellum wardrobe was impeccable. The scene in which Mammy harnesses Scarlett’s waist down to 18in inspired generations of sadistic fashion designers but, fiddle-dee-dee, we can’t help loving those Walter Plunkett designed ballgowns.

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　　虽然费雯丽的南方美人口音有点不靠谱，但她穿战前服装的优雅方式无可挑剔。保姆将斯嘉丽的腰勒成18 英寸的场景为一代代有施虐倾向的时装设计师带来了灵感，不过，这纯属无稽之谈。我们无法不喜欢那些沃特�普兰克特设计的公主撑裙。

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　　Vocabulary

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　　1. impoverished a. 穷困的，赤贫的。

　　2. gritty a . 反映现实的，写实的。

　　3. kitchen-sink: 激进现实主义(英国20世纪 50年代后期以来的一派画家和剧作家，其作品着重描写工人家庭生活等的现实灰暗面)。

　　4. 凯瑟琳�德纳芙饰演的是一名外科医生的太太塞维莉娜(S�verine)，她一面是衣冠楚楚、高贵而不可侵犯的贵妇，另一方面又不满足家庭的无聊生活，偷偷跑到妓院卖淫。

　　5. serenade v . 对…唱(或奏)小夜曲。

　　6. androgynous a . (服饰等)为两性所用的，男女不分的。

　　7. nubile a . 性感的。

　　8. wonky a . 靠不住的，有差错的。

双语阅读：震撼时尚界的八部老电影双语阅读：震撼时尚界的八部老电影

　　1《西区故事》(1961 年)

�

　　Natalie Wood plays an impoverished Puerto Rican on the wrong side of town, but still gets to wear ravishing New Look silhouettes with beautifully matching shoes. This disregard for the tenets of gritty kitchensink drama bothered us for years, but then we remembered that her character Maria worked in a bridal shop – was she helping herself to fabric and dye when the boss wasn’t looking? And is that why she felt so pretty?

�

　　娜塔利�伍德饰演的是一名穷困的波多黎各人，住在镇上的贫民区，但她依然穿着迷人的“新风貌”服装，以及与之相配的漂亮鞋子。这种无视写实激进现实主义戏剧的宗旨的服饰让我们困惑了很多年，不过，我们记得她饰演的人物玛利亚在一家婚纱店工作——难道她趁老板不注意的时候私用布料和颜料了吗?那就是她看起来那么漂亮的原因吗?

�

�

�

　　2《白日美人》(1967 年)

�

　　The director Luis Bu?uel steadfastly maintained that this was a serious psycho-sexual study of bourgeois neurosis. Nice try, Bu?uel. Obviously what’s really on show here is Catherine Denueve’s stupyingly chic wardrobe – designed for her by YSL himself. Seriously – the clothes helped to nail the Deneuve character’s pampered, demure confusion.

�

　　导演路易斯�布努埃尔一直坚称这部电影是一个严肃的对资产阶级神经症的心性研究。得了吧，布努埃尔。显然这部影片真正讲的是凯瑟琳�德纳芙令人惊叹的时髦服装——由伊夫�圣罗兰亲自为她设计。说真的，这些衣服有助于揭示出德纳芙所饰演的人物放纵和假正经并存的双重性格。

�

�

　　3《夜长梦多》(1946 年)

�

　　Notwithstanding that she is one of the most beautiful females ever to grace the planet, Lauren Bacall’s Big Sleep looks – the pinned-back hair, the chicly tilted hats, the power-shouldered jackets – were arguably the finest she wore on screen. And observe again at the dress in which she serenades the punters in Eddie Mars’s gambling den: incomparable.

�

　　尽管劳伦�白考尔是这个星球上最美的女性之一，但她在《夜长梦多》中的装扮——头发别在后面、帅气地斜戴着帽子、肩部翘起的夹克——可能是她在屏幕上最靓丽的形象。再细看一下她在埃迪�马尔斯的赌场为赌客唱小夜曲时穿的裙子：无与伦比。

�

�

　　4《赎罪》(2007 年)

�

　　How come films set inthe 1930s almost always look better than films made in the 1930s? Moving as Christopher Hampton’s adaptation of Ian McEwan’s novel is, Keira Knightley’s clothes steal the show. The costume designer Jacqueline Durran grasped the period and ran with it – languid, elegant, understated yet drop-dead gorgeous.

�

　　为什么以20 世纪30 年代为背景的电影几乎总是比20 世纪30 年代拍摄的电影要好看?影片《赎罪》由克里斯托弗�汉普顿改编自伊恩�麦克尤恩的小说，随着故事跃然于银幕，凯拉�奈特利的衣服便大出风头。这件服装的设计者杰奎琳�杜兰抓住了那个时代的特征，并追随潮流——慵懒、优美、简洁，但美艳夺目。

�

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